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Sloshed: Is There Any Way to Make Wine Bars Better? (nymag)

**"I'm getting, like, jammy leather with a hint of cocoa."**

Wine bars are not like other bars. Bars are fun. Wine bars are not. Even the
term "wine bar" is boring. Often, these places -- the kind that are named the
Cellar or A.O.C. -- feel less like bars (places to meet people for a drink,
good conversation) and more like tutoring rooms. Don't get me wrong: I like
drinking wine. I once ran a cafe where I peddled a small (but distinctive!)
wine list. I even wrote a monthly column all about wine for McSweeney's. But
my goodness: Wine bars have got to get better.

There are exceptions: Terroir and Cavatappo in New York, for instance; the
Barrel Room in San Francisco -- places that are more like cafes than wine
bars. But for every cool, non-pretentious exception, there are thousands of
places trying to get their customers to care about tasting notes and proper
swirling technique. So, what exactly makes wine bars so dreadful, and what can
be done to improve them?

**Problem 1:** The vibe is usually awful.

In addition to whatever material things bars sell -- wine, beer, cheese,
whatever -- they ...

nymag